What's there in Yamaguchi City: A Haven of Exceptional Warmth

You might wonder what Yamaguchi has to offer.

Before I began working in Yamaguchi Prefecture, my knowledge was limited to its location at the southern tip of Japan's main island and its reputation for fugu (blowfish). Over the years, my monthly visits to the prefecture have made it feel like a second home, and I'm excited to share its intriguing aspects, starting with Yamaguchi City.

Recently, Yamaguchi City was highlighted by The New York Times as a must-visit destination for 2024, sparking excitement in this tranquil provincial city.

Yamaguchi City, often referred to as the "Kyoto of West Japan," is a serene town surrounded by mountains on three sides, reminiscent of Kyoto's topography and landscapes. The city boasts temples dating back 400 years, with city planners of that era being feudal lords who admired Kyoto's culture and attempted to emulate it. Despite these efforts, I personally don't sense the same Kyoto vibes here—perhaps due to my limited knowledge of Kyoto.

In the city center, the Ichinosaka River flows, and in spring, cherry blossoms line its banks. The cityscape blends old-fashioned mom-and-pop shops with trendy coffee spots, offering a relaxed atmosphere—quite a contrast from the overwhelming crowds and chaos of Ueno Park during Tokyo's cherry blossom season, which I was eager to escape before arriving in Yamaguchi.

A short drive from the city center reveals picturesque countryside scenes with rolling hills and fields. The peaceful rural landscape, dotted with traditional houses sporting reddish-brown tiled roofs, resembles scenes from a child's drawing, creating a beautiful contrast with the urban environment.

I often encountered family-owned businesses where the owners serve customers themselves. I enjoy chatting with locals, asking simple questions, and receiving heartfelt responses that showcase their pride in their products and services. The people here are incredibly accommodating; even my most challenging requests are often met with a personal touch. This sense of responsiveness feels more like a personal commitment than mere customer service, adding depth to the kindness and warmth of this town. While generally, the Japanese are known for their kindness, the warmth of the people here is truly exceptional.

Here's an example:

My friend and I arrived at Mizunouegama Kiln in Toshunji Temple around 4 PM. Knowing that the gallery's schedule was uncertain, we took a chance and were fortunate. Masui-san, the Hagi ware artist, was just closing up but touched us deeply by kindly reopening the gallery, even going so far as to open all the drawers again to show us his works in detail.

In his creations, we felt his kindness and warmth reflected.

The next day brought another unexpected delight. In the heart of Yuda Onsen lies the historic Matsudaya Ryokan, renowned for its garden designed by the legendary Ogawa Jihei. Although I had wished to visit, the high cost dissuaded me as a solo traveler. By chance, I discovered that the garden and its museum, which housed artifacts of historical significance, were open to the public. Upon arriving, we cautiously peeked inside to check if anyone was present, only to find the ryokan closed on that particular day—an unexpected shock. Undeterred, we found the manager standing near the entrance and asked him if it was entirely impossible to enter. To our delight, he unexpectedly welcomed us in, and we had the stunning garden all to ourselves.

The ultimate example of this spirit was the umbrellas I found at a taxi company garage.

Designed to keep the cars clean from things falling from above, a nest had formed there, left undisturbed to let nature take its course. This simple adaptation shows a willingness to coexist and thrive, even if the other party may not realize the benefits.

"The swallows will all return to their nests in the evening," a taxi driver shared with me while smoking a cigarette.

In Japan, there's a saying that swallows nest where kind people gather, and my experiences in this town have truly validated that belief.